Formulating of cosmetics 0600-S1-ChK-RK

Lecture:
Lecture will inform student about basic formulation in cosmetics and formulating of cosmetics, lecture covers the following topics: tonics, cleansing preparations, shampoo, shower gels, after shave gels, selftanning preparations, whitenning products, hair color cosmetics, nail care cosmetics. The rules of selection of cosmetic ingredients will be discussed: preservations, smell, color agents). The rules how to choose the form of cosmetic preparation.

Tutorial:
Student will:
work with regulation regarding formulating of cosmetics,
work with literature data regarding cosmetic raw materials and cosmetic ingredients,
do calculation regarding concentration of components, HLB number for selection of emulsifiers,
interpretate the ingredients of commerial cosmetic preparations,
propose own list of ingredients for cosmetic preparation dedicated to selected action.

Laboratory:
During the laboratory classes, student will prepare skin care products, such as: oral hygiene products (toothpaste, mouthwash), bath and shower cosmetics (hand wash gel, bath and shower gels, bubble bath products), face care cosmetics (cream, mask, peeling and scrub products, tonic), cosmetics for make-up removal (make-up remover milk, cleansing micellar water), hair care cosmetics (shampoo, conditioner, lotion), sun cosmetics (sun screen cream and oil), shaving products (aftershave tonic, lotion, balm and gel).

Term 2022/23Z:

Lecture:
1. How to select cosmetic ingredients – the rules.
2. How to choice preservatives.
3. How to select colour and fragrance of cosmetic.
4. The choice of the cosmetic form.
5. The methods for study of emulsions’ stability.
6. Basic formulas of cosmetic products: day and night creams, cleansing preparations for body and hair, hair styling, skin photo-protection, self-tanning and whitening products, peelings, tooth paste, nail cosmetics, cosmetics for men and children.
Laboratory:
1. Introduction to the laboratory - bath bomb, bath cube, eye gel.
2. Cosmetics for removing make-up and face toning (two-phase make-up remover, micellar cleansing water, tonics)
3. Washing and bath cosmetics (toothpaste, intimate hygiene gel, emulsion shampoo for damaged hair).
4. Peels.
5. Cosmetic masks.
6. Hair removal products (depilatory cream, soothing aftershave gel). Hair styling products (hair styling lotion, hair gel).
7. Deodorants and antiperspirants.
8. Creating cosmetic formulas.
9. Final test.
Tutorials:
1.Raw cosmetic materials – how to choice them
2. Regulations and rules in production of cosmetics (limitations and banning).
3. Calculations of formula, concentrations, HLB, CMC, acid number and saponification number.
4. Interpretation of ingredients of commercial cosmetic products.
5. Formulating of own cosmetic product: proposition own list of ingredients for cosmetic preparation dedicated to selected action.

Term 2023/24Z:

Term 2024/25Z:

Term 2025/26Z:

Total student workload

1. 30 hrs lecture, 45hrs laboratory,45 hrs tutorial: together 120 hrs with a teacher 2. 30 hrs consultations 2. 35 hrs individual work, 3. 65 hrs time required for preparation to the assessment, 4. total time work by student 250 hrs, 10 ECTS. From 2024 Hours with the teacher: 30 hours - lecture, 30 hours - tutorial, 45 hours- laboratory class, 45 hours – consultations: together 150 hours of contact with the teacher 150 h of individual work -preparation for lecture – 15 h -preparation to lab– 45 h -preparation to tutorials – 50 h -individual work for exam – 40 h All together 300 h. (12 ECTS)

Learning outcomes - knowledge

W1: Student knows basic groups of cosmetic raw materials – K_W05. W2: Student knows the action of cosmetic raw materials – K_W05. W3: Student knows the role of ingredients in cosmetic formula – K_W05. W4: Student knows the types of cosmetic formulations and the rules for their preparation – K_W13. W5: Student knows how to select proper igredients of cosmetic formula – K_W14. W6: Student knows how to prepare color cosmetic – K_W17.

Learning outcomes - skills

U1: Student is able to characterize function and action of cosmetic raw materials – K_U04. U2: Students is able to recognize action of cosmetic according the structure of cosmetic ingredient i – K_U05. U3: Student is able to prepare selected cosmetic formulation – K_U08. U4: Student is able to design simple cosmetic preparation – K_U09. U5: Student is able to color cosmetic formula – K_U10. U6: Student is able to assesss critically any news about cosmetic chemistry in mass media – K_U12.

Learning outcomes - social competencies

K1: Student is capable of analytical thinking: K_K01. K2: Student is able to conclude base on selfe-designed analysis – K_K01. K3: Student is able to do correct experiment and work with dedication – K_K03, – K_K06, – K_K07. K4: Student is able to use several sources of information to make his/her knowledge wider – K_K07.

Teaching methods

Lecture: Lecture with PowerPoint presentations. Laboratory: Individual work in the lab.

Expository teaching methods

- problem-based lecture

Exploratory teaching methods

- laboratory
- practical

Type of course

compulsory course

Prerequisites

Basic knowledge on general chemistry, cosmetic raw materials, cosmetic formulations, organic chemistry and physical chemistry.

Course coordinators

Alina Sionkowska

Assessment criteria

Assessment
Lecture – W1-W6, U1, U2.
Laboraory – W1, U1-U5, K1- K4.

Topics for exam:
1. Basic groups of cosmetic raw materials.
2. The rules of selection of cosmetic ingredients.
3. Selection of preservatives.
4. How to choose smell and color?
5. How to choose the physico-chemical form for cosmetic preparation?
6. Examples of formulary for: tonics, cleansing products, shampoo, shower gel, day-cream, night-cream, mascara, conditioners, selftanniing preparation, after shaving gel, skin whitenning product, hair color cosmetic, niail care cosmetics.

Criteria of assessment
Lecture: test, min. treshold – 60%;
60-66% - 3,
67-70% - 3+,
71-80% - 4,
81-89% - 4+,
90-100% 5.

Laboratory: assessment the experimental work and reports. Treshold – 50%;
50-60% - 3,
61-65% - 3+,
66-75% - 4,
76-80% - 4+,
81-100% - 5

Practical placement

Not applicable

Bibliography

1. R. Glinka, M. Glinka, Receptura kosmetyczna z elementami kosmetologii, Wydawnictwo Oficyna Wydawnicza MA, Łódź 2008.
2. W. Malinka, Zarys chemii kosmetycznej, Volumed, Wrocław 1999.
3. M. Mrukot, Receptariusz kosmetyczny, Kraków 2006.
3. Chemia kosmetyczna wybrane zagadnienia, pod red. A. Sionkowskiej, Wyd. UMK, Toruń 2019
4. Z. Sarbak, B. Jachymska-Sarbak, A. Sarbak, Chemia w kosmetyce i kosmetologii, MedPharm Polska, Wrocław 2013
Wykaz literatury uzupełniającej:
1. R. Schueller, P. Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry 3rd Edition, Allured Buisness Media, Carol Stream, USA 2008.
2. Chemia i Biznes, Rynek Kosmetyczny i Chemii Gospodarczej - kwartalnik biznesowo-informacyjny z zakresu przemysłu kosmetycznego i środków czystości

Term 2022/23Z:

Term 2023/24Z:

Term 2024/25Z:

Term 2025/26Z:

Notes

Term 2022/23Z:

Term 2023/24Z:

Term 2024/25Z:

Term 2025/26Z:

Additional information

Additional information (registration calendar, class conductors, localization and schedules of classes), might be available in the USOSweb system:

Description of 0600-S1-ChK-RK in USOSweb